Hot Revenue Climb Day

The high temps couldn't keep Mark away from first ascents of the new routes he put up.  So to The Village we went.  These climbs are at The Morning Glove crag, on a piece of rock we call The Thumb.

Here be dragons, luckily I know a dragon slayer.

The Thumb at The Morning Glove:
1. Aristocrack 5.7
2. Love Crack 5.8
2a. Love Face 5.8 TR
3. Bum Hug 5.8
4. Obnoxious Weeds 5.9
5. Cadillac Poops 5.10

It was like ninety to ninety five degrees, we were probably one of maybe five climbing parties in the state that day.

Mark leading the first ascent of Bum Hug.

Love crack, up close and blurry.  This is the only crack that I have climbed in Montana that requires pure crack technique for 30 plus feet.

Bum Hug

Montana is a lawless place, The Village is no exception.

Aristocrack, up close. It's a chunky 5.7, tons of fun.

The photo makes it look a bit chossy but this is simply not the case.

This rock helps to remind us that we are walking in the right place, it is a friendly rock.

You rock, rock.

The classiest route in The Village, the hike out.

Will we be able to access these cliffs again someday?  

perhaps...

 

From The Village with love. Wish You Were Here!


Read more about this adventure here:  http://mcalpinism.blogspot.com/2015/06/morning-glove-climb-day.html

Morgan Cemetery

Morgan Cemetery. I had never been there before and the entry in the guide book was intriguing. The book mentions two routes and one project, but indicates that there will probably be more routes in the future. Colton and I headed out to investigate. We found lots of development going on and lots of poisonous ivy going on as well.

Sepulcher wall

This is the section of  Sepulcher I tried to climb, thinking it was Mushroom. I attempted to lead what I thought was a 5.9, but now I think it was the 5.12 project in the book. There appears to be a completed route to the right of it.

It was the toughest 5.9 ever!

Beware! There is definitely POISON IVY/OAK at the base of these crags, see the bright green patches in the center background? I was itchy for weeks.

 

Morgan Road in Gallatin Valley can be seen at the bottom of the photo.

A completed route on the wall above Sepulcher wall that goes through the small roof. Does anyone know the name of this wall?  

 Top of a route,  I'm sure there is more poison ivy visible in this photo.

We didn't walk over to Fusion wall, but we could see bolts shimmering at us from the top of Mushroom. We tried what was surely the 5.9 in the book on Mushroom wall, "Fire in the Sky".  The climbing at Morgan Cemetery is worthy but tough, if the sharp rocks don't get you the poisonous plants will. A big THANK YOU to anyone who is putting in the new bolts and chains!

Sypes Trail Run

On June 2nd I managed to get out to Sypes Canyon for some trail running.

The weather on a show.

This is why we practice lightning drill people!